The main page for RM is here. The changes are:
On the Setup Panel, the maximum setup code you can use for a device varies according to the remote (and in some cases, the extender). For some older remotes it is, indeed, 0000 to 2047, but with the URC-6440 it is 0000 to 4095. The very latest models of the URC-6440 allow up to 8191, but if you use the extender, it is still restricted to 4095.
The functions panel includes a column for EFC-5. You read about this in the document that came with the URC-6440 extender, didn’t you? Well EFC-5 is the appropriate type for the URC-6440.
External Functions Panel
This, and following sections, mention a program called IR (ir.exe). This is obsolete and you will be using RMIR (which comes packaged with RM) instead.
You don’t really need this, and it can’t be edited. The best method for inputting the data from RemoteMaster to RMIR (not the quickest, but the one that retains your notes and info) is as follows:
- Save the RemoteMaster file you just created.
- Run RMIR and load your existing Remote rmir file.
- Go to the Devices tab and click New (or highlight a Device and click Edit if you are improving an existing device).
- At the bottom left of the window that opens, click “Open”. And open the file you just saved from RemoteMaster. This method will ensure all the annotations you made will also be used in RMIR.
- And, near the bottom right, click OK.
You will be returned to RMIR which will ask you what Device Button you want the new device bound to, and … job done!
And on to RMIR
There’s a pretty comprehensive manual on using the RMIR program, here. If you have the URC-6440 complete with USB connector, that is all you will need, you can ignore the next section.
URC remotes with 6-pin connector
If you have a different remote, you will need a special cable. There are links on the RMIR help page, but most of them end up taking you to American sites. In the UK (and possibly elsewhere in Europe), you can get a cheap USB to FDTI cable from E-bay, which you then need to rewire into a 2×3 panel plug. Make sure it’s a genuine FDTI chipset though, because some other copies don’t work. An example (but check this and others). If you get one with 6 single connectors on the end, you can glue them together to make a 3×2 so that, viewed from the back (i.e., not the side with the holes that you push onto the pins in the remote), the wires to the 6 pins are:
BLUE — BLACK — RED
WHITE — GREEN — YELLOW
Once the glue is dry, snip off the Blue and Red wires, and insulate the ends, so that only four wires are connected:
NONE — BLACK — NONE
WHITE — GREEN — YELLOW
If you get one with a 6×1 connector on the end, you will have to get a 3×2 Dupont connector, and carefully release the wires from the existing connector and push them into the 3×2 connector, arranged the same way.
If your remote is an old EEPROM-based JP1 type, you’ll have to get a further adaptor and in this case, there is no alternative to getting it from the USA. You can tell if yours is the old JP1 type from the second chart on this page, column 5.
If you connect the plug and/or the adaptor the wrong way round, no damage will result, it just won’t work, so turn it round and try again.
Some ideas that I put together
Now it’s time to put all this into practice. The next page gives a few indications of how to make good use of the extender features.
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